It was one cold monday morning at the end of October, and I had a day off work before holidays. As sun was just starting to lift fog around my place I had a strong desire to take a walk. A LONG walk. And since there was my brother around, I asked him to take me to Radenci, a small village some 15 km from Vinica just before Kolpa enters a canyon.
Kolpa is a river- for those of you, who didn't know. It starts in Croatia, than joins the border with Slovenia just above Osilnica. It makes a border all the way to Metlika, where it winds back to Croatia until it finally joins with Sava near Sisak. It is one of best kept secrets of both countries. Even in summer, when many tourists flock to its warm waters for swimming and
canoeing, there are many places where it feels like you are standing at the last frontier. Thanks to the remoteness of the region where Kolpa flows for most of the time- rugged mountains covered with ancient forests, with only few narrow roads winding along the way- its miles away from the urban troubles we live in.
Almost all the way to the place where I live - Vinica in Bela krajina, Slovenia- Kolpa is flowing in a narrow canyon, only occasionally the valley opens a bit. One of these places is a village Radenci, where the Radenci-Damelj walkway starts. It is a path in the canyon just next to the river. It is easy walking - going down to the river. For most hikers it takes some 3 hours with normal pace.
This was not my first time taking this walkway. But thanks to the autumn colours of forests, mist just rising from the river- this all meant this time was even more special.
You start the walk on
alluvial plain next to the village of Spodnji Radenci. The fog was just beginning to lift, and sun rays were already penetrating through clouds...
In few hundred meters the path joins the river. Since it wasn't raining for quite a while the water levels were low. Kolpa was cristal clear- mists were dancing above the river, slowly drifting as wind was carrying them down the river.
The path is usually winding just a meter from the river. With the autumn coloured trees, and perfect stillness around it looked like a scene from a fairy tale.
The steep canyon walls are rising above the river. As the path leads to the east I had sun almost directly infront of me for most of the way. If I was going later during the day it would be hidden behind these steep hills.
There used to be water mills virtually every few kilometers on Kolpa at the start of 20th century. Dams made out of stone were diverting power of the river to the mill. Nowadays most of these mills and dams stay in ruins. One of these is also next to the carst cave Kobiljaca.
There are few other attractions you see on this walkway- water springs, caves, ruins of buildings constructed with only stone... What impresses me most every time I take this path is the peace you encounter there. There is a good chance you won't see a soul all the way to Damelj. Only singing of birds and occasionaly fish jumping out of the water might accompany the sound of your footsteps....
Anyways.... In case any of you feel like experiencing this path. Kolpa and its canyon is most beautifull in late spring and mid-autumn when leaves change color. These are times when you might see only occasional hiker for all the length of the path.
My journey that monday finished just before noon in village Damelj. I recharged my batteries. And so can you....
